The most humbling, challenging, and natural high you can experience, what I like to consider my newfound passion. Surfing. One may view it as a sport, and others may even consider it a religion. For me, I relish on the culture it creates and spiritual aspect you feel when being in the ocean. It’s an addiction I’ll suffer from for the rest of my life, and I’ll forever crave the sensation of riding a wave.
It only took that one wave back in September when it all finally clicked, and ever since that moment I’ve been hooked. For me there is no better feeling than dropping in on a wave and allowing the energy of the ocean take you for a ride. Living in Costa Rica for the past two and a half months has taught me new surf techniques, but even more importantly I’ve become engrossed in a surf culture that’s contagious. Whether it’s your first time getting out in the water, or you’ve been surfing since you could walk, there’s a sense of belonging and community here in Tamarindo that welcomes you into the surf world with open arms.
You know the saying, live by the sun, love by the moon, well I’d like to create a little remix version for Tamarindo. Live by the tide, love by the moon. Monday through Sunday, come high tide is when the magic happens. High tide is when Tamarindo truly comes to life, and you see a beautiful blend of locals and tourists rushing to get in the water. Familiar faces or new ones, no matter how many waves you catch or how many times you get completely tossed out there, you’ll always feel the pura vida vibes from those around you. It’s never a competition out in the water, but rather a celebration of individuals coming together through the love for surf.
Surf diversity at its finest too. You have people out there who are standing up on their first wave with the biggest smile glued to their face, a father surfing with his two-year-old daughter sitting at the front of his board, a six-year-old absolutely shredding it, and a local long boarder who basically looks like he’s walking down the red carpet as he moves up and back his 9ft board while casually hanging 10.
Don’t let this post fool you though. I’m not some professional surfer by any means and Billabong is most definitely not sponsoring me. I have some days where I feel like Kelly Slater out there, and other days where I get hit in the head with my own board. That’s part of what makes surfing so beautiful though. It’s a constant challenge that keeps you grounded. The conditions are never the same, each wave is different, and you rely on the elements of nature. So whether you’re new to the surf world or not, I encourage you to stay salty and stay humble, and embrace the positive impact surfing has to the mind, body, and soul.